Archive for the ‘Litterbox Scoop’ Category

Cloning Pets……..a follow up

Friday, February 16th, 2007

As a follow up to my earlier post, Pet Cloning Company Closes Its Doors, I found another article on pet cloning.  A South Korean scientist has cloned 3 female afghans since June of last year.  Lee Byeong-chun of Seoul National University was a former member of a research team that cloned the first male dog a year earlier.  He and the rest of the team are on trial on charges of misappropriating research funds. 

At a University in Texas a cloned cat had a litter of 3 kittens in September of 2006. 

This leads to the question of how far are people willing to go?  Would you consider cloning your pet? 

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That’s one well travelled cat………

Friday, February 16th, 2007

Got this from Associated Press:

FORT WALTON BEACH, Fla. - Pickles the cat is in a predicament a long way from her Arkansas home. The calico feline from Bismarck, Ark., stowed away in a moving van unloading furniture at a neighboring home. The truck’s driver, who is highly allergic to cats, discovered her the next day in Fort Walton Beach. He packaged her inside a moving box with holes and contacted the Panhandle Animal Welfare Society. He also tracked down her owners.

Now Pickles is waiting to return to Arkansas.

“(The dad) said he tried to book a charter flight, but that was $3,000,” said Dee Thompson-Poirrier, of the Panhandle Animal Welfare Society.

But Ryan Clayton, Pickles’ owner, said he would do what he has to so she gets home.

“One way or another, she’s going to come back to Arkansas before too long,” Clayton told the Northwest Florida Daily News.

The shelter is sending a gift home with Pickles, an airbrushed T-shirt with the words “My cat went to Fort Walton Beach and all I got was this lousy T-shirt.”

Do you have a moving story about your pet?  My least favorite move was with 2 cats in a box filled Kia, driving 2 hours with both cats howling the entire time.  Needless to say I didn’t see either of them for 3 days post move as they were mad at me and I am sure they had lost their voices.

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Scooting? It looks funny but could be……

Friday, February 16th, 2007

Have you ever watched your pet scoot across the floor on his rear end?  Yes it looks a little odd but what your pet is really trying to do is to empty his anal glands.  The anal glands are 2 little sacs located at 4 and 8 o’clock around the anus.  These sacs normally are emptied when your pet has a bowel movement but they can get blocked or abscess.  The reasons for the blockage could be as easy as having diarrhea for a few days, hence they are not expressed, to cancer.  Now if you have ever smelled anal gland material you will remember that scent forever.  When pets have a bowel movement this scent is placed on the feces and that is why "everyone" must smell each other when greeting and when they are in the park checking to see who has been where.

(Anal gland abcess)

If your pet is constantly scooting take him to the vet.  They will examine the anal area, express the sacs if they are full or they will figure out what is causing the blockage.

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Spay Day USA

Thursday, February 15th, 2007

For everyone that lives in the US mark February 27th as a day to get "Rover" the snip snip.  Some vet clinics are offering discounts for the day or month to help promote "responsible pet owners" and to help as Bob Barker always says "control the pet population".  You can visit the Humane Society of the United States or the Doris Day Animal Foundation websites for more information.

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Tidy Dogs or Just Disgusting Your Pick…..

Thursday, February 15th, 2007

Coprophagia, a pretty long word for what it really means.  According to Wikipedia it is "consumption of feces, from the Greek copros (feces) and phagein (eat). Many animal species have evolved to practice coprophagia; other species do not normally consume feces but may do so under unusual conditions."

Why do some animals do it?  Well some animals like rabbits and guinea pigs have a rather simple digestive system and sometimes the poop they have is not quite finished digesting so they will eat it almost immediately and have it digested again.   Other animals like dogs will eat their poop for other reasons.  Sometimes it is a learned behavior from watching their owners scoop, sometimes it is a boredom thing, sometimes it is done to get attention, sometimes it can be due to a medical condition and other times it is just their way of cleaning up.

Coprophagia is not a behavior that most humans would like their pets to have.  Often it is a behavior that will reduce once a puppy matures but sometimes it has to be dealt with by a little bit of training on the part of the owner. 

Tips to help prevent coprophagia:

1.  Clean up immediately after your pet has defecated.

2.  Make the feces unappealing.  You can try feeding your dog a teaspoon of pineapple, spinach or there is a commercial product available called forbid.  If you have more than one pet in the household it may be necessary to feed all of them one of these items as the "poop eater" may notice that his poop tastes awful but will eat the other’s feces.

3.  If the dog is still fond of feces, try teaching your dog not to touch it using the command ‘Off.’ Put your dog on leash and walk him by some feces. If he shows any interest in it, tell him, ‘No, off.’ If he continues to go for it, then loudly scold him, ‘OFF!!!’ and pull him away from it with a short, sharp tug on the leash. When he stops, praise him. Continue walking and keep returning to different piles of feces over and over, repeating the off procedure until he gets the idea that you disapprove of his dietary interests. Whenever he shows no interest in the feces, be sure to tell him how happy you are through praise and reward.

Just remember when dealing with coprophagia it can sometimes be a normal thing for animals to do and just because we don’t like it and think its disgusting your pet may just be keeping the place clean for you.  No amount of scolding will help deal with the behavior.  Try the above tricks and if they don’t work talk to your veterinarian or staff to get a little more help.

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Why neuter your pet?

Wednesday, February 14th, 2007

To neuter or not to neuter……..why must almost every guy be so attached to his canine’s testicles?  It’s so funny when a female owner calls in to book the procedure for her boyfriend’s dog……"oh he just couldn’t do it to fido"………or the wife who calls saying "my husband thinks it will make the dog fat is this true?"  There are so many good reasons to neuter your dog guys so get over it……….we’re not taking away your manhood.

Did you know?

Each day 10,000 humans are born in the U.S. - and each day 70,000 puppies and kittens are born. As long as these birth rates exist, there will never be enough homes for all the animals. As a result, every year 4 to 6 million animals are euthanized because there are no homes for them.  

What can you do to stop the suffering?

Neuter your pet! In addition to saving lives, neutering can also drastically improve your pet’s health and life expectancy. The idea that pets become fat or lazy when they are neutered is a myth. Sterilized pets lead healthier, longer lives.  Neutering a male reduces the risk of both prostate enlargement and prostate cancer. Neutering also will make your pet more affectionate and less likely to roam, get in fights, or become lost.  

Good for You, Your Pet, and the Community

Prevent A Litter - It’s Good for You and Your Pet

  • Neutered pets are better, more affectionate, companions.  
  • Neutered pets are less likely to bite. Unaltered animals often exhibit more behavior and temperament problems than those that have been neutered. 
  • Neutered animals are less likely to roam and fight.

Prevent A Litter - It’s Good for the Community

  • Communities spend millions of dollars to control and eliminate unwanted animals. Irresponsible breeding contributes to the problem of dog bites and attacks. Animal shelters are overburdened with surplus animals.

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Flea Control for Cats

Wednesday, February 14th, 2007

Just a little warning for all you cat owners out there.  I work at a veterinary clinic and have done so for the past 15 years.  We had a cat come in last week that had a severe reaction to Advantage-Multi being applied wrong by the owner. It is very important to apply the medication at the base of the skull. Not between the shoulder blades like other flea control products like Revolution.  Because the owners applied the Advantage at a lower point the cat was able to turn around and lick the area and Advantage Multi is not meant to be orally consumed.   The cat presented to the clinic with the following clinical signs:   fever, tachycardia, unable to walk and vomiting.  We placed the cat on IV fluids, started some medications and general nursing care and the cat made a full recovery but if the owners had not noticed what was happening with their pet they may have lost her. 

For cats: apply onto the skin at the base of the skull. Be careful not to apply it too low or your cat may be able to lick off the solution. Although this won’t harm your cat, it doesn’t taste good and it could lower the effectiveness of the treatment.
http://www.nofleas.ca/english/how/easy.asp

So please owners read the labels, read the directions and if you don’t understand them please ask one of your veterinary clinic staff.

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Feline Leukemia - A Social Killer

Wednesday, February 14th, 2007

Feline leukemia virus is a retrovirus (named this way because of the way it reacts with cells).  It is similar to HIV in humans because it produces an enzyme, reverse transcriptase, which permits the virus to insert copies of its own DNA into that of the cells it has infected.  Feline leukemia virus (Felv) is found worldwide but the incidence or prevalence of infection depends on the cat’s age, health, lifestyle and enviroment that it is living in.

A cat that is at the greatest risk of being infected is one that may be exposed to another cat that already has the disease or through bite wounds.  So cats that go outside, or cats living in the same household as a sick cat or a kitten born to a mother with the disease have an increased risk of contracting the virus.  Kittens and young adult cats are much more susceptible to the disease as sometimes with maturity also comes resistance but this doesn’t mean that adult cats cannot become infected.

Felv can affect a cat in many ways.  It is the most common cause of cancer in cats, can cause blood disorders, and like AIDS in humans can cause a state of immune deficiency that renders the cat unable to protect itself from other infections.  In the beginning states of the disease cats may show no signs of being ill.  Eventually a cat’s health will decrease or can have intermittent "sick" times.  Some of the signs include the following:

  • Loss of appetite

  • Slow wasting of weight

  • Poor coat

  • Enlarged lymph nodes

  • Persistent fever

  • Pale gums and other mucus membranes

  • Inflammation of the gums (gingivitis) and mouth (stomatitis)

  • Infections of the skin, urinary bladder, and upper respiratory tract

  • Chronic or intermittent diarrhea

  • Seizures, behavior changes, and other neurological disorders

  • Eye problems like constant weeping, redness, inflammation

To determine if your cat has Felv your veterinarian will want to run blood work.  There are 2 types of blood tests that can be run.  An ELISA test can be run at the clinic and an IFA test is usually sent out to a laboratory.  As with many tests false negatives are always a possibility so your vet may want to repeat a test or do both.

Protecting your cat is trying to prevent exposure to Felv infected cats.  Keeping your cat indoors, away from other cats and potential bite wounds is one way.  Another way is to test your cats and then test any new cat that you may introduce to your cats that you already own.  Felv vaccinations are also available at your veterinarian but again vaccines are not 100% so you may want to talk this over with your veterinary staff.  Unfortunately, many Felv-infected cats are not diagnosed until after they have lived with other cats. In such cases, all other cats in the household should be tested for Felv and then you may need to separate your infected cat from the other cats.

If your cat has been diagnosed as being a Felv infected cat then as a responsible pet owner you must keep your pet indoors.  It is also very important to spay or neuter that cat, feed it well, avoid RAW diets (increased chance of food-borne bacterial and parasite infections), closely monitor your pet’s health and behavior and bring any changes to your veterinarian’s attention.  While it is impossible to predict the life expectancy of an infected cat but with appropriate care and support a cat could live 2-3 years.  If your cat unfortunately passes away getting another cat and bringing it into the household poses some clean up solutions.  Usually the virus will not survive outside of the cat for longer than a few hours but clean the house with a 10% bleach solution, throw away any old toys, litter pans etc and make sure that your new cat is vaccinated against the disease.

Laboratory studies have not proven that Felv is zoonotic but Felv infected cats may carry other diseases.  Immunosuppressed people, such as those with AIDS, undergoing immune suppresion medications, elderly or the very young can have issues with the other diseases that these cats may carry.

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Winterize your pet…..

Tuesday, February 13th, 2007

Frequently we as humans forget that we have to winterize our pets.  While some pets are better suited than others for living outdoors others are not and should be kept indoors.  There is a common misconception that dogs will be “fine” if left outside. This is not true! All animals need shelter and insulation against cold weather.  Frostbite and hypothermia are possible for our furry friends as well.  Geriatric and young animals are high at risk so special care should be given to them. 

Dog Houses:  If you are going to keep your dog outside you must provide it with an adequate house.  The house should have a heat source, dry bedding and be situated in a place that is protected from the wind.  Bedding could be straw or blankets but be careful if your pet is prone to chewing.  There are many heat sources available at pet supply stores like heated mats or lamps to be used with animals.

Food and Water:  Fresh water should be available at all times.  Heated dishes are great for those really cold climates.  During the cold spells animals will need more food for energy and maintaining body heat.

Foot Care:  Dogs with longer hair may develop ice balls between the pads of their feet causing limping.  Be sure to clip the hair to prevent this from happening or use booties like Muttluks.  If you are walking your pet on sidewalks or roads make sure you wash their feet when you get home with a warm wet cloth as people will have “salted” or “de-iced” their walks.

Anitfreeze:  Antifreeze for vehicles is a sweet substance that many pets will enjoy lapping up but just a few licks can be fatal.  Make sure that any containers are locked up and any spills cleaned up immediately.

Seeking Heat:  Many animals will seek the warmth of a car engine.  Before you start your car take the time to honk the horn or knock on the hood to scare off any animal that has possibly crawled up into your engine the night you brought your vehicle home.

The ASPCA has a good list of things to help winterize your pet.  As well a call to your veterinarian may help give you some pointers.

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Obesity A Pet Epidemic Too!!

Saturday, January 13th, 2007

Did you know that approximately 45% of pets brought to veterinary clinics are overweight?  It’s true.  These are some guidelines that I follow when determining if a pet needs to go on a diet…

1.  Feel your pets rib cage.  You should be able to feel individual ribs.  If not your pet is overweight.

2.  Stand over your pet.  Does it have and hourglass figure?  If not your pet is overweight.

3.  Look at your pet from the side.  Is there a tuck at the abdomen?  If not your pet is overweight.

These are some quick things that you can do to see if your pet is overweight.  Now as for putting your pet on a diet that is another issue.  First switch your pet (slowly over a week or two) to a reduced calorie diet.  Two of my favorites are R/d by Hill’s or Calorie Control by Royal Canin.  Take your pet to your veterinary clinic, talk to the staff there and weigh your pet.  Both of these companies offer pamphlets that help to determine what your pet should be eating to lose weight. 

Some other tips to help lose the weight are exercise, small frequent meals (so your pet feels full all day instead of being a voracious eater at one meal and hungry the rest of the day), feed carrots or low calorie treats and exercise.  Some people ask how can I get my cat to exercise…..sure its easy for the dog people they just have to walk the dog but what about my cat.  I offer the following suggestions……

Put the food bowl up or downstairs so your cat has to do the “stair” workout.  Use enticing toys like laser pointers, feathers on strings or flicking sticks to get your cat to move around.

Just like with humans it is important to lose the weight at a decent rate.  Most will agree that 10% a month in weight loss is a steady rate.  I also encourage people to take their pet into their veterinary clinic once a month to get weighed and talk with the staff with regards to any questions you may have or to adjust the amount of food that your pet will get daily.

Remember, losing weight is never easy for humans or pets but with perseverance and the assistance of a good diet and the help of your veterinary staff you can do it and so can your pet.

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